Wednesday, April 30, 2008

First time .... 初めての。。。

Yesterday I saw people practicing parade at the square in front of Hermitage and then I got robbed by a group of pickpockets out of six at the entrance gate of subway when I was about to go to the subway station. My God. I looked for an Internet cafe and then made a phone call to stop card transaction, then I called Japanese embassy to ask them what I shall do now. They advised me to report a burglary to the police. Well, it was pity that my stay permit has been stolen too. I talked about it at the apartment, then they advised me to go to the tourist infomation near the Hermitage. There they help tourists to fill out form for the police for free. It seems that it happenes often.

昨日はエルミタージュ広場の前でパレードの予行らしきものを見た後、地下鉄の駅に向かおうとしたところで、その入り口で6人組みのすりの集団に遭遇。やられたね。インターネットで電話番号を探し、日本と電話してカードを止めた後、大使館に電話をして指示をうかがう。盗難届けを出した方がいいと。なるほど。滞在許可証を盗まれたのが痛い。アパートへ帰ってその話をすると、エルミタージュのところにある観光案内で盗難届けを出すための申請書類の翻訳を無料でしていると聞く。どうもここではそういうニーズが多分にあるらしい。



And today, I went to the tourist infomation by the Hermitage museum and let them translate my report. There I encountered a group from Switzerland. It seemed to me that they had a similar case and got robbed. We decided that we liked each other very much and I helped them to visit the police. The address we got at the tourist infomation turned out to be the wrong one; we got robbed in the territory of subway and went to the other place. It was around noon time and the Swiss group offered me a tea break. After that we went to the railway police. The man in charge was unexpectedly kind and gentle; when he knew that I am Japanese from my report, he started to mention that he loves Japanese products. And I mentioned with my poor Russian that there are many Japanese cars in St.Petersburg. He wrote the report very quickly and gave it to us. I said goodbye to the Swiss group and headed to a translation company near the apartment for the German translation of the police document. I found out that my family name was written incorrectly, but there is no way back any more. Maybe it will go without any problem.

そして今日、早速エルミタージュの横にある観光案内へ行って警察への提出書類を翻訳してもらった。たまたたスイスから来ていた観光客と一緒になる。同じような状況で盗難にあったらしい。すっかり意気投合!し、その後は一緒に教えてもらった警察に行って、そこで鉄道警察は別の場所だと教わり、お昼も近かったのでカフェでお茶を御馳走になったあとに、さらに別のところにある警察に行く。所長さん?は意外に優しい人で、日本人だと分かると日本の製品はいいと言い出した。片言のロシア語で、ここでは沢山日本車が走ってますねと。すぐに書類を書いてくれて助かった。スイス人ともお別れしてそのまま翻訳事務所へ。そこでロシア語で書かれた苗字のつづりがおかしいことに気づくが、まぁしょうがない。ナントカなるだろう。


From today, we had another traveler in the apartment. Australian student Scott who is now majoring music and also studying Russian and his friend David who came all the way to St.Petersburg to see his friend. They are very easy-going. Scott told me that he also was robbed when he came to Russian five years ago. Subway is very dangerous and people should be very careful there. Any way, to stay in this type of accomodation would give me a chance to get to know people from other countries and it is fun.

今日からアパートに別の客がやってきた。オーストリア人でロシアで言葉を勉強している音楽専攻の学生スコットと、その彼に会いにオーストラリアから遊びにきたデビット。気さくな連中だ。スコットも5年前に来たときに同じようにメトロですりに遭ったらしい。地下鉄は要注意だとか。いずれにせよ、こういう宿は別の国の知らない人と出会う楽しみがあっていい。

Monday, April 28, 2008

Walking day 散歩の日

As is very common with me, the first day is to walk around during the travel. I tried to get the feeling of big streets and monuments for the orientation. In addition to it, here there are channels and it makes me easy to have a feeling of location. I went through the Sennaya square ploschad crowded with many people looking at market, then from the street along Griboedva channel I took Poznansky street toward the St.Isaac's cathedral. Looking the cathedral on the left, I went further and further to west along the Neva river. There I found a lot of beer ads along the street and encountered a group of people at wedding ceremony. I went across the Lieutenant Schmidt bridge and got to the other side of the river. What I felt of the city was Prague. The Neva rivier is much wider than Buldava in Prague, but the impression I got from the streets or buildings is exactly as same as the one from Prague. Many cars here have spike tires and maybe because of that, it is quite dusty by big streets. It might be unbearable for people with asthma. Cars running frequently honk and also cars parked along the road equipped with surveillance alarm! I unexpectedly found some traffic lights with waiting seconds, and also huge streets with six lanes without any traffic lights but sign which indicates people may cross the street. Cars are running quite fast, I can hardly imagine that they would stop when they find pedestrians.

いつものように旅行初日は散歩の日。大通りとモニュメントの位置感覚を憶える。それに加えてここには運河があるので比較的分かりやすい。市でにぎわうセンナヤ広場を通り、グリボエドバ運河沿いから途中でボズネセンスキー通りをイザック教会方面へ。教会を横目にネヴァ川沿いを西へ西へ、そこでやけに多いビールの看板と、結婚式の団体を見つける。ルーテナントシュミット橋を渡って川向こう。ここまでに頭に浮かんだのが、プラハの街。こちらの方が川幅がはるかに広いけれど、建物や通りの感じは正にプラハ。こちらの車は沢山スパイクタイヤを履いているせいか、大きな通りの歩道ではやけにほこりっぽい。これは喘息持ちの人だったらたまらないだろう。車はとんでもなく頻繁にクラクションを鳴らすし、路駐されている車の防犯用のブザーか?異常とも思えるほど頻繁に鳴っている。予想外に横断歩道には待ち時間表示がついているものもあるが、逆に対向6斜線の広い道路で信号もついてないのに、歩行者横断の標識があるところがある。それに車がやけにスピードを出して走っている。とても歩行者を見て止まってくれるとは思えない!


Then again, I just took the direction which seemed to me more interesting. After finding another bridge and I just walked to that and arrived at an island on the Neva river. There is the Peter and Paul cathedral in the fortress, and the outside of the fortress there is a beach. I saw some men and women in their bathing suites lying, and in front of them a group of students are playing in this big sandpit.

また適当に通りを眺めて面白そうな方へ、また次の橋が見える方へとてくてく歩き、ネヴァ川に浮かぶ島に着いた。城壁で囲まれた中にピーターパウル教会があり、また城壁の外にはどうも市民のビーチらしい砂浜が。既に水着を着て寝転がっている男女が数人いたが、その手前の方では小学校の生徒らしき団体が砂遊びをしている。



Then again I aimed to the next bridge, I passed the Artillery museum where cannons or tanks are displayed in front, then after crossing the next bridge again walk along the river. After a while passing by a yocht, I went across an imperial guardian lion. On the basement it is written that ”大清光緒30年吉林O旦”. I read my guidebook at home later, and it says that the statue is from Manchuria. However, the emperor mentioned here is Guangxu Emperor in Qing Dynasty?! There is also a statue of Sphinx a little down the river.

また次の橋を目指しててくてくと。戦車や大砲が置かれているアーティレーリー博物館の前を通り、次の橋を渡ってからは川沿いをまたひたすらてくてくと。帆船を通り過ぎ、それからしばらくして狛犬に遭遇。”大清光緒30年吉林O旦”と書いてある。家でガイドブックを読んでみると、満州の彫刻とかなんとか書いてある。でもこれは清の光緒帝のことだろう?ちなみに川を海の方に下る方向にはスフィンクスの像もあった。

I walked further again until I got to the Aurora in front of a building with a huge Gazpron ad and many souvenir shops. I went across the next bridge and then took the direction toward the Hermitage museum. In front of the museum there is a square which is much bigger than a ball park. I am so happy that I finally can visit the museum after my long time wish. Actually I would visit there in some days. I took Gorokhovaya street and directly to my apartment. It was a six-and-a-half walking including lunch. I was really truely exhausted.

その先、大きなガスプロンの看板をつけた建物の前にアウロラが泊っていて沢山おみやげ物屋が。次の橋を渡って今度はエルミタージュ前の通りを美術館の方向へ。エルミタージュの前は、野球場がひとつすっぽり入ってもまだまだ余裕があるほどの大きな広場になっている。長年の念願がかなってやっとエルミタージュの絵が見られると思うといよいよ嬉しい。まぁ実際には後日の訪問になるけれど。それからあとはゴロクホヴァヤ通りをまっすぐ、アパートまで。全工程お昼を含めて6時間半。さすがに疲れた。
 

 

Sunday, April 27, 2008

Vienna-Berlin-St.Petersburg ウィーン=ベルリン=サンクトペテルブルグ

From Vienna via Tegel airport in Berlin to St.Petersburg. A female staff at the Air Berlin counter was very unfriendly. Well, I remember that I saw a lots of women like that when I was in Berlin. As soon as our airplane landed at St.Petersburg airport, group of people sitting behind me started to clap their hands and woos.... well this is the second time to see, the first time was at Fiumicino.


ウィーンからテーゲル経由でサンクトペテルブルグ。エアベルリンのカウンター、ねーちゃんが本当に愛想がない。そういえばベルリンではこういうの沢山見たな。サンクトペテルブルグに着く、着陸時に後方の乗客一団から拍手と喝采が。。。これを聞くのはファウミチーノに着陸したときについで2回目だ。

I exchanged 400 Euro at the airport. 360 Rubles per 10 Euro. I have to memorize this rate. I took a route bus from the airport which was mentioned in an email from the person in charge in the apartment I booked. Four Italian guys where talking with their guide book open and I did not have to take mine out of the bag. Transportation fee is 16 Rubles and 100 Rubles for penalty, (it was read "strafe" as same as in German) I suddenly thought that I have to pay when I get in the bus as soon as possible but there are lots of people behind me and cannot go forward. Maybe it is all right to pay when I get off the bus.

空港で早速両替、400ユーロを替えてもらう。10ユーロあたり360ルーブル。この感覚は憶えておかねば。空港からアパートの管理人からの指示のメールに従い路線バスを見つけて乗る。隣にイタリア人4人がガイドブックを見ながら話しているのを聞き、これならわざわざガイドブックを出す必要がない。ロシア語で料金(ストーリィ)16ルーブル、違反(シュトラーフェと書いてあるからドイツ語と一緒だ)は100ルーブル払えと書いてあるようだ。違反があるなら乗るときに払わないとおかしいなと思うが、人が一杯で前にいけない。まぁ下りる時で大丈夫だな?

Including Italian tourists, lots of people with suitecases got off at the busstop near a subway station. Maybe it is written that we have to pay without change, but I have just exchanged money at the airport and I do not have small coins like 16 Roubles as many others didn't. The bus driver just wave his hand mentioning we have to get of quickly without paying. The first time to ride without payment.

イタリア人の彼らも含め、沢山のスーツケースを持った人が地下鉄乗り場のあるバス停で下りていく。多分つり銭のないようにと書いてあるらしいが、こっちは空港で両替したばかり。他の旅行客も状況は同じだろう。16ルーブル払うはずが運転手のおじさんはもういいからさっさと降りろと手を振る。コインなどあるはずがない。初めて公認無賃乗車をした。

At the subway station I bought a ticket, or correctly saying a plastic coin for the subway. It looks just like a toy coin. Very easy to make a fake? It will be gathered and there is no chance to make litters and it might be nice maybe. On the platform of subway station there are doors to prevend passengers' dropping in. (maybe to prevend suicide or for drunkers?) New subway likes in Tokyo are the same. So I expected that they can stop the cars exactly at the door, but they did not. There were no signes shown in the car which station they would stop, and it is not possible to watch from the car which station I was then; only through the opened door and the one on the platform I was able to see the platform. If there is no sign seen through the door, I had to count the number of stations I saw or listen to the announce very carefully. Fortunately I was able to recongize which station I was and I was told how many stations I have to pass until I should get off, so I did not have any problem but without Russian, it seems to be very hard to travel completely alone here.

地下鉄の駅で、チケットというかコインを買う。おもちゃみたい。これなら簡単に偽造できるんじゃないの?まぁ回収性だしゴミが一切出ないからいいのかもしれないけど。地下鉄の駅は、ホームから人が落ちないように(もしかして自殺防止、もしくは酔っ払いの転落防止か?)が入れないように乗車口のところだけに扉がついてる。これって東京の一部の地下鉄と同じ。毎回寸分たがわず同じところに止める技術があるのならと、車両を期待して待ったが、期待は裏切られた。もちろん車両内には電光掲示板はないし、そもそも電車の中からはホームがホームの側の扉を通してしか見えないから今どこの駅に着いたのかは車内放送をあてにするか、それともホームの側の扉から駅名表示の看板が幸運にも見えなければいけない。一応いくつ目の駅で下りるか数えていたし、車内放送の駅名も聞き取れたから問題なかったが、これはロシア語がまったくだめだと独りで旅行するにはかなりハードルが高い。

Then I got off the station and then follow the street along the channel to the apartment. When I went up stairs, I felt that I might have come to a wrong place. But at the fourth floor I felt somehow relaxed; There are four rooms and a shared living-kitchen. There is a wash machine in bathroom combined with toilet, and also another room with shower and toilet. They told me that another travelers would come in two or three days.

あとは指定の地下鉄の駅でおり、運河沿いをひたすら指示通りにアパートへ。アパートの階段を上がるときには一瞬まずいところに着たんじゃないかと思ったが、4階に上がって一安心。4部屋とキッチンリビングが共通。風呂とトイレにある部屋に洗濯機、もう一部屋はシャワーとトイレ。WGの感覚か。2,3日したら別の宿泊客が来るらしい。


The lady in charge of the apartment did not understand English, but she spoke German, French and also Italian, then there was no problem. Another woman just spoke Russian. I greeted her in Russian and it make her somehow happy. She told me that there is milk, butter and jam in the fridge and I can take what I want. These were the words I had just learned ! It looks like that many German people would use this apartment. It costs 40 Euro per night. It is as same as in Paris. Well here is the touristic city. WLAN was available but my laptop is very old which I bought when I left Japan 6 years ago. It would not work at all. Only for two weeks I can forget emails. But maybe it was time to buy a new one.


管理に当たっている女性は英語がだめなようだが、ドイツ語もフランス語もイタリア語も分かり、これなら何の問題もない。もう独りの女性はほとんどロシア語のみ。少しばかりロシア語で挨拶をしてとても喜ばれた。冷蔵庫に牛乳と、バターとジャムがあるから好きに使ってくれと言われた。牛乳、バターにジャム。丁度憶えたばかりの単語だった!ドイツ人がかなり利用するところらしい。宿泊は一晩40ユーロ。パリでアパートの一室を借りたときと同じ値段。さすがは観光都市。WLANが使えるようなんだがこっちのラップトップは最後に日本を出るときに買ったかなりの年代モノ。(Pentium3!)どうも使えない。たった2週間だからたまにはおとなしくするか。でもやっぱりそろそろ新調しなきゃいけないかな。